Filed under: Peru
So, going back to May: After about a week in and around Cusco, I took an hour-long flight to Lima, Peru’s capital. My arrival in Lima marked the first time that I was below 3000m / 10,000ft in about a month (having been in Bolivia’s high desert and La Paz before that). The oxygen-rich air was thick and rejuvenating. Lima itself is moderately interesting; probably the best thing it has going is its excellent seafood restaurants, particularly the cevicherias. I had several memorable meals the two days I was there.
I left Lima quickly, before I lost my acclimatization.
My next stop was Huaraz, Peru – one of the centers of high-altitude mountaineering in South America. Nestled against the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz is home to sixteen peaks over 6000m / 19,600 ft and dozens more over 5000m / 16,400 ft, and is close to the Cordillera Huayhuash, an even more impressive mountain range that is best known for being home to the epic survival story documented in the movie Touching the Void. Huaraz is not a beautiful town, but the backdrop and views are amazing.
I quickly met several other climbers, some at the hostel where I stayed and others at Cafe Andino, an excellent bar/cafe/library/restaurant that serves as ground zero for alpinism in Peru. Within a few days of arriving I hooked up with two brothers from England, Sam and Sky, who were planning on doing some climbing as well. We decided that we would hire a guide to attempt Tocllaraju mountain, topping out at 6033m / 19,793 ft, and then, after a day’s rest, we would attempt another mountain in the same area without a guide. A jarring 2.5 hour ride, most of it over pock-marked dirt roads, took us to the pueblito of Collon, home to a few huts and donkeys, where we organized gear and loaded it onto donkeys and then embarked on the 8-mile hike to base camp – fortunately it was a pretty gentle grade.
We arrived at base camp a few hours before our donkeys, so our plan to make it all the way to high camp in one day didn’t fly. Instead we relaxed under blue skies, leisurely set up camp, and had a pleasant dinner of ramen noodles. The next day at about noon we made the steep hike up an exhausting moraine field (lots of large boulders, poorly marked trail) for about 3 hours to high camp. We set up camp on the edge of the glacier, at about 17,000 feet, at a spot with an excellent view of the next day’s goal: Tocllaraju’s summit.
Early the next morning, at about 1:30 am, after a perfunctory breakfast, we departed base camp, put on our crampons and roped up, and started the long hike across the glacier and snow fields to the Northwest Ridge, our route. The first couple hours was of moderate angle, though still difficult because of the altitude, and presented a few spots where the route finding was challenging, especially with the abundance of crevasses. Then the climbing got steep, and super fun, with 50+ feet of climbing up to 80 degrees or more. Being early in the climbing season, much of the route was still soft-ish snow, instead of compact ice, making solid placements with ice axes and crampons difficult, and the crux sections exciting. It was an absolute blast though, being that high up on such steep terrain. Aside from being short of breath the entire time, I had no problems with the altitude, though one of the brothers in our group was feeling the effects of the altitude in a pretty bad way, but to his immense credit he pushed on, even after ralphing. Had he been unable to continue, we would have all had to retreat; that would have been a huge bummer. We reached the summit, out of breath, around 10 am or so and were rewarded with sweeping, panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca and its playground of big, jagged mountains. We were 19,793 feet up, the second highest I’d ever been.
The descent was pretty straightforward and we even got to do some fun rappelling on the steep sections. Back at high camp we rested for about two hours before breaking camp and making our way back down to base camp. We arrived a little after dark. My legs were jello and it took all my energy to cook dinner.
The next day we rested, spending the day basking in the sun, playing cards, and having a few beers at the nearby refugio. We also prepared a bit for the next day’s planned climb of Ishinca mountain, another mountain accessible from the same valley we were in. Because it would be less demanding than Tocllaraju, we decided to attempt this mountain ourselves, without a guide. It would be my first mountaineering trip without a professional guide, so I was pretty excited.
The next day we woke up a little after 4:30am, a good 2 hours after we were supposed to wake up. Coincidentally, my watch battery died that night and we didn’t hear Sam’s alarm. So, we awoke with a start and made the quick decision that we would have to scrap Ishinca and instead attempt Urus mountain, a similar mountain in terms of difficulty, but which we had heard would not take quite as long to summit. (We were a bit pressed for time as our mule driver was arriving at 1pm to take us back out of the valley.) Sky decided to stay at camp and rest since he was still recovering from altitude sickness, so it was just Sam and I. The first two hours we spent trudging, half-asleep, up a steep, rocky mountainside and trying to find the correct trail in the dark. Finally we reached the snow fields and, under beautiful bluebird skies, donned crampons and roped up for the climbing. Sam was gracious enough to let me lead, which was awesome. The climbing was not too difficult, though it required climbing on both snow and ice. We reached the summit, 5420m / 17,782 ft, after about 1.5 hours. The summit was a small snowy field protruding about 15 feet off some rocks and as I made my way, slowly, to the top, I peered over the other side and found myself looking straight down thousands of feet. When Sam reached the top and gingerly peered over, he notice that the snow field was actually a giant cornice – i.e. a giant overhanging edge of snow formed by wind. Thus we quickly retreated several feet, slung our rope around a giant boulder, secured ourselves with some other anchors, and only then started snapping the requisite summit shots.
We made it back to camp shortly before the mule driver arrived, who, when he did arrive, shared his surprisingly delicious lunch of rice and beans with us. We then made our way back to Collon, then to Huaraz, and then directly to Cafe Andino to take advantage of the happy hour specials on daiquiris and pisco sours (the best I’ve had). I slept like a drunken baby that night.
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